Frommer's Maryland & Delaware by Mary K. Tilghman

Author:Mary K. Tilghman
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Published: 2012-05-01T16:00:00+00:00

Crisfield & Smith Island ★★

126 miles SE of Annapolis; 153 miles SE of Baltimore; 155 miles SE of Washington, DC; 142 miles S of Wilmington, DE

The remote town of Crisfield, on the extreme southern end of the Eastern Shore, offers an insider’s look at the lives of the watermen and the seafood industry. Crisfield, built on acres of oyster shells, was once known as the seafood capital of the world. Even though the industry has shrunk over time, crab and oyster packing, along with services for pleasure boaters, remain major businesses here. Indeed, the crab-packing houses now share the waterfront with marina slips for yachts and new condominiums. For visitors, Crisfield and its neighbor, Smith Island, make a great launching point for fishing and boating trips on the deep waters of the southern Chesapeake.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Crisfield is accessible by car via Maryland Route 413 from Route 50 or U.S. Route 13. You can also take your boat to Crisfield past Smith Island. (Before heading into shallow Tangier Sound, check your charts.)

VISITOR INFORMATION For helpful information about Crisfield and the surrounding countryside, contact Somerset County Tourism ( 800/521-9189 or 410/651-2968; www.visitsomerset.com). In town, stop at the visitor center, 1003 W. Main St. ( 410/968-1543).

SPECIAL EVENTS The National Hard Crab Derby and Fair ★ is a 3-day event with a crab-cooking contest, a crab-picking contest, country music, and, of course, the crab race. It’s held Labor Day weekend at Somers Cove Marina; admission is about $4. Make hotel reservations well in advance. The J. Millard Tawes Crab and Clam Bake, held the third Wednesday in July from 1 to 5pm, is an all-you-can-eat affair; buy tickets in advance. For either event, call 800/782-3913 or 410/968-2500 for information.

Where to Stay

Most people come to Crisfield by boat or drive here for a day visit or to catch a boat to Smith Island. Accommodations are simple. You can choose from the well-kept Captain Tyler Motel ( 410/968-2220), run by the family of the Smith Island cruise boat, or the Somers Cove Motel ( 410/968-1900) near the marina. A third choice is the pretty B&B on a quiet side street, listed below.

My Fair Lady ★ Painted blue with a wraparound porch, this 1900 B&B is within walking distance of the waterfront but set in a residential area. Rooms are filled with antiques and collectibles. A three-room suite in the attic has space for a small family. Other rooms are small but comfortable. Some have walk-in closets and all feature beautifully carved woodwork and 12-foot ceilings. All rooms have bathrooms en suite except one, and that one uses the hall bathroom with the house’s original claw-foot tub.

38 W. Main St., Crisfield, MD 21817. www.myfairladybandb.com. 410/968-0352. 6 units. $140–$380 double. MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer upon request.

Where to Eat

Olde Crisfield Crab and Steak House SEAFOOD You can’t miss this citrus-colored eatery that features, no surprise, crab and steak. The owners have pretty good credentials—they also own the venerable Middleton Tavern in Annapolis. Outside seating is available on patios and decks by Tangier Sound.

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